304. Adrosko, Rita J. Natural Dyes and Home Dyeing. New York:

Dover, 1971. 154 pp. Index, B/W illus., color illus. ISBN 0-486-22688-3.

    An overview of 18th-and- 19th century dyes used in America is

followed by a brief discussion of color theory in this classic work by the

curator of the Division of Textiles of the National Museum of History and

Technology. The author gives 52 recipes for dyes made from natural

dyestuffs, along with step-by-step instructions for preparation of the dyes

and carrying out the dye process. The appendices include excerpts from

early 1800s treatises on dyeing. This important and thorough resource on

natural dyeing was originally published in 1968 as U.S. National Museum

Bulletin 281, Natural Dyes in the United States.

305. Bearfoot, Will. Dyes and Fibers. Willits, CA: Oliver, 1975. 152 pp.

Index, B/W illus. ISBN 0-914400-10-X.

    The book describes trees and plants that provided weaving and dye

materials for North American Indians. The short introductory chapter on

preparation and mordants is followed by dye recipes and instructions for

use. Those interested in natural dyes will find this a clear, concise resource

but will probably want to supplement its use with more information on


306.Bemis, Elijah. The Dyer’s Companion. 2nd ed. 1815 Reprint. New York

Dover, 1973. 311 pp. ISBN 0-486-20602-7.

    This unabridged reprint consists mainly of dye recipes using natural

materials in hot and cold processes. Rita J. Adrosko provides the

introduction. Readers will find this book most useful as a historic record of

dyeing and as a supplement to contemporary manuals for natural dyes and


307.Blumenthal, Betsy and Kathryn Kreider. Hands-on Dyeing. Loveland,

CO: Interweave, 1988. lll pp. Index, bibl., glossary, B/W illus., color

illus. ISBN 0-934026436-X.

    The book explains the dyeing of natural fibers using union, fiber-

reactive, acid, and pre-metallized dyes and provides basic dye recipes for

each dye type. Except in the case of union dyes, the authors use a

combination of English and metric measurements. That is, dry ingredients

are measured in teaspoons or cups, while fiber is measured in grams, and

wet ingredients are measured in liters. However, since a gram scale is

necessary to weigh the fiber or yam, using it to measure the dry ingredients

-- especially the dye powder -- would yield greater accuracy and more

predictable and reproducible results. Topics include dyeing and record

keeping for both yarn and fabric, dip-dyeing, resist, rainbow dyeing, over-

dyeing, and double-dyeing, and instructions are given for thirteen projects.

There is a short but adequate discussion of color theory. An English metric

conversion chart, brand and scientific name charts, list of suppliers,

glossary, and bibliography round out the book. The beginning dyer will

find this an accessible introduction to the subject, the more serious dyer may

prefer the greater precision found in Linda Knutson’s Synthetic Dyes and

Natural Fibers.

308. Bolton, Eileen. Lichens for Vegetable Dyeing. London: Studio Vista and

McMinnville, OR: Robin and Russ Handweavers, 1972. 63 pp. Index,

bibl., color illus. ISBN 0289702887.

    This practical handbook for dyers covers lichens found in the United

States and United Kingdom and explains show to find, gather and use them.

Five specially drawn color illustrations of lichens as they grow in the natural

environment are included. One of the five color illustrations provided

shows 21 samples of amazingly brilliant lichen dyed fleece. After a brief

history the text recounts the growth characteristics of selected lichens and

their uses in dying wool and linen and also includes a dictionary of lichens.

309.Bronson, J., and R. Bronson. Early American Weaving and Dyeing.

New York: Dover, 1977. 204 pp. B/W illus. ISBN 0-486-23440-1.

    Originally published in 1817, this text on handweaving patterns and

dye recipes is said to have revolutionized practices of the 1800s because it

revealed closely guarded trade secrets and provided accurate recipes for

home use. Approximately half the book is devoted to preparing and dyeing

yams. Rita J. Adrosko gives guidance on adapting the historic information

to contemporary practices. Those interested in learning about early

practices in weaving and dyeing will enjoy this book.

310. Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Dye Plants and Dyeing: A Handbook.

Brooklyn, 1964. 100 pp. B/W illus., color illus.

    This handbook contains articles originally published in Plants &

Gardens, volume 20, number 3. The articles cover topics that range from

personal experiences to historical information for dye recipes. As a group,

the articles provide essential information on natural plant dyes and how to

use them. The recipes for dyes using various plants describe the hues,

values, and chromas that can be expected and offer hints on how various

fibers will take the dyes. An excellent color chart shows the results of

using the dye recipes on wool fabrics. Essays by experts, for the most part

devoted to dyeing techniques of other cultures, include special tips on

manipulating color. Although this book will be most relevant to those

studying the historic or cultural backgrounds of natural dyeing, it is also

useful for those wanting to dye their own cloth or yarn using natural

materials. The final essay lists and annotates 13 key historical works on


311.Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Natural Plant Dyeing: A Handbook. Brooklyn,

1973. 64 pp. Index, bibl., B/W illus. color illus.

    This handbook was originally a collection of articles published in

Plants &Gardens, volume 29, number 2. Experts discuss a wide range of

issues mainly related to collecting and using natural materials in the United

States, Sweden, Australia, and New Zealand. Also useful is illustrated

information on mordants and how their use can yield diverse results from

the same dyebath. This handbook will be most valuable to those interested

in locating and using natural plant materials for dyeing. The annotated

bibliography suggests seven additional resources on the topic and a list of

dye plant suppliers is also included.

312. Brown, Rachael. The Weaving, Spinning, and Dyeing Book. New York:

Alfred A Knopf, 1980. 366 pp. Index, bibl., glossary, B/W illus., color

illus. ISBN 0-394-49801-1.

    This thorough how-to book is amazingly comprehensive in its

discussion of equipment and techniques. The chapter on dyeing covers

natural and synthetic dyes and provides recipes and instructions. The

“Design and Color” chapter discusses a design process that begins with

setting limitations and applying design principles. Then color theory is

covered briefly. The breadth of this book is both an advantage and a

disadvantage, because each topic is not addressed in detail. An extensive

chapter catalog suppliers of both materials and equipment.

313. Brunello, Franco. The Art of Dyeing in the History of

Mankind. Vicenza: Neri Pozza Editore, 1973. 467 pp. Index, bibl.,

B/W illus., color illus.

    This scholarly work chronicles the history of dyeing from prehistory

to 20th century. Using primary sources, the author traces the evolution and

development from mineral pigments to artificial dyes with an emphasis on

the chemistry of dyeing. The appendix is a dictionary of natural dyestuffs.

This authoritative book will be indispensable to the serious student of dyes.

314.Celikiz, Gultekin and Rolf G. Kuehni, ed. Color Technology in the Textile

Industry. Research Triangle Park, North Carolina: American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1983. 210 pp. Index, endnotes/footnotes,

B/W illus.

    Because of the specialized nature and complexity of some

information, this book’s appeal may be limited to textile researchers and

practitioners. However, the serious beginning student will find some

accessible sections. References following each chapter are extensive.

315. Casselman, Karen Leigh. Craft of the Dyer: Colour from Plants and

Lichens of the Northeast. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1980.

249 pp. Index, bibl. ISBN 0-8020-2362-2.

    An easy-to-read guide to contemporary and traditional dyeing

methods, this work indexes and describes 150 dye plants and lichens native

to North America focusing on the region east of Manitoba and Minnesota

and south to Virginia. The author includes a history of dyestuffs and

documents her sources for techniques or devices shown in the book. The

excellent bibliography surveys dye references from Canada, the United

States, and the United Kingdom. Twelve color photographs of yarns give a

fine preview of color possibilities using natural dyes. The major

shortcoming is the lack of illustrations of the plant materials to aid

identification by beginning collectors.

316. Dalby, Gill Dalby. Natural Dyes, Fast or Fugitive. Dulverton, Somerset,

England, Ashill, 1985. 47 pp. Index, bibl., color illus. ISBN 0-948020-008.

    This book covers the principles of testing dyes for lightfastness,

uses of natural daylight or artificial daylight, and mordants, and provides a

color atlas to identify hue, intensity, and tone. The author’s discussion of

color mixing is based on magenta, cyan, and yellow, which he calls

“secondary” colors although he uses them to mix blue, red, and green

which he nonetheless calls “primary” colors. The single illustration is a

color plate that shows 85 naturally dyed colors very effectively. Arranged

in alphabetical order from alkanet to woad, the entries for each color also

provide the Methuen Handbook of Color notation match and light fastness

and wash fastness ratings. Recipes for 22 natural dye stuffs are also given,

including variants for compound colors and lighter and darker variants.

This book will be most useful to the dye specialist.

317. Davidson, Mary Francis. The Dyepot. Middlesboro, KY, 1950. 26 pp.

Index, bibl. glossary.

    This very brief yet thorough overview of wool dyeing using natural

materials describes fiber preparation, mordanting, and dye procedures.

Most of the book presents dye recipes arranged alphabetically from alder

leaves to zinnia petals. A key to the colors derived from dye plants is an

especially useful feature. The information is presented clearly and

concisely, making this a handy resource for the experienced dyer.

However, the beginner may not find sufficient detail to initiate a dyeing

project. No publisher is given.

318. Dyer, Anne. Dyes from Natural Sources. London: G. Bell, 1976. 88 pp.

Index, B/W illus. ISBN 0-7135-1937-1.

    This book covers all aspects of dyeing wool, including the art of test

dyeing. A special feature is the section on dyeing in schoolrooms. Plants

in Britain, North America, Australia, and New Zealand are described

though not illustrated. Although it has an instructive text, the book has only

one black and white drawing in each chapter.

319. Fraser, Jean. Traditional Scottish Dyes and How to Make Them.

Illustrated by Florence Knowles. Edinburgh, Scotland: Canongate, 1983.

106 pp. Bibl., B/W illus. ISBN 0-86241-036-3.

    This book gathers recipes for using 75 native dye plants, from alder

to yarrow, and often lists several colored dyes that can be made from a

single plant. A chart shows groups of plants that make yellow, green,

brown, purple, black, red, orange, pink, and grey/blue/violet, with the most

practical easiest to find plants listed in italics. While the pen and ink

drawings for each of the plants are beautiful, one regrets the total absence of


320. Furry, Margaret S. and Bess M. Viemont. Home Dyeing With Natural

Dyes. Washington, D. C.: Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government

Printing Office. 35 pp., B.W illus.

    This collaboration by a textile chemist and a textile and clothing

specialist was published during the height of the Great Depression, in

response to the “present wide-spread interest in handicraft work,” and in

support of various governmental relief activities. The publication reports

the results of systematic tests on 65 natural dye materials for dyeing cotton

and wool. Information is organized for six hue families, as well as brown,

gray, and black, all tested for fastness to light and washing. A brief but

adequate discussion of color combinations is based on a traditional six-hue

color wheel. Recommendations are given for using similar hues, unlike

colors including complements, and color proportion with neutralized colors

used for the largest areas. A key to colors and dye materials lists and cross

lists 92 entries. Brief histories of some of the dye stuffs, interesting color

lore, and practical information enliven this brief but practical resource.

321. Koretsky, Elaine. Color for the Hand Papermaker. Brookline, MA:

Carriage House, 1983. Part l, 85 pp.; part 2, 8 pp. Index, bibl., glossary,

color illus. ISBN: Part 1, 0-9612216-1-5EiPar1 2, 0-9612216-2-3.

    This technical handbook on colorants for the hand papermaker

provides a comprehensive guide for the orderly use of natural organic dyes,

synthesized organic dyes, and pigments in the paper studio. The author’s

introductory overview discusses aesthetics, permanence, cost and safety,

and general technical issues. Other topics include theory of dyes and

pigments, nomenclature, permanency, and a thorough explanation of dyeing

procedures. The second part consists of loose sheets with small tipped-in

colored paper samples, and laboratory worksheets for the colorants, with

concise details for methodology and lightfastness for the reader to complete.

This is a definitive reference work by an experienced studio papermaker and


322. Knutson, Linda. Synthetic Dyes and Natural Fibers. Seattle:

Madrona, 1982. Index, glossary, B/W illus., color illus. ISBN 0-914842-


    This clearly written and well-illustrated resource presents

information on fiber and dye chemistry that applies equally well to yarn and

yardage. The chapters on protein fiber dyes and cellulose fiber dyes

contribute to the authority and usefulness of the book. The attention to

detail will satisfy both textile specialists and the “at home”dyer. Though

brief, the chapter on color theory is thorough with an especially valuable

illustration of the hue-circle location of blacks, browns, and other

“neutral”colors. This is an excellent, well-organized reference for

quiltmakers who dye their own fabrics.

323. Kramer, Jack. Natural Dyes: Plants & Processes. New York: Scribner,

1972. 144 pp. Index, bibl., B/W illus., color illus. ISBN 684-12828-4.

    More than a collection of dye recipes, this small book includes a

brief discussion of the characteristics of color and suggests some color

combinations. Chapters on acquisition of plant materials and preparation of

wool yarns are followed by information on the dye process and dye recipes.

The appendix includes a list of suppliers and color charts that show the

results of plant dyes on yarn using three different mordants.

324. Krochmal, Arnold, and Connie Krochmal. Complete Illustrated Book of

Dyes from Natural Sources. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1974. 272 pp.

Index, bibl., B/W illus., color illus. ISBN 0-385-05653-2.

    This excellent book begins with a historic overview of dye plants

and their usage over time. Dye processes using plant materials and natural

fibers, including the method of over-dyeing, are briefly but clearly

explained. More than 200 pages of dye recipes are arranged according to

hue. Line drawings and photographs round out the thorough coverage of

natural dyes, but the book lacks a general discussion of color theory and use

as it relates to fibers.

325. McGrath, Judy Waldner. Dye from Lichens and Plants. Toronto: Van

Nostrand, 1977. 144 pp. Index, bibl., color illus. ISBN 0442-2958-7.

    Arctic plants are the subject of this dye manual,which was inspired

by the author’s teaching experience in Spence Bay, Canada, where she

organized a summer-long workshop for 32 Inuit women who collected and

tested many local dye plant materials and eventually set up a cottage

industry. Technical information on these Arctic dye stuffs is divided into

17 basic methods that can be used with all natural dye materials. This neatly

organized book -- with its 13 color plates, index of lichens and plants by

botanical and common names, index of plants by color, instructions for

making a dye record book, and model color palette made with naturally

dyed fibers -- will inspire natural dyers.

326. McLaren, Keith. The Colour Science of Dyes and Pigments.

Bristol: Adam Hilger, 1983. 186 pp. Index, B/W illus., color illus. ISBN


    The author, chair of the Colour Group of Great Britain, outlines the

historical and chemical development of dyes and pigments from the stone

age to modem computer matching. The book provides an excellent

overview of the main theories and mechanisms of color vision, the variables

of perceived-color vision related to color atlases, and the processes and

instruments used to measure color, and firmly addresses the interests of

fiber artists and technicians. McLaren’s ability to enliven the history of

color discoveries and inventions makes this a highly readable introduction to

the field. The impressive bibliography which includes many international

references, provides a valuable resource for further study.

327. Millard, Debra. A Quilter"s Guide to Fabric Dyeing. Englewood, CO:

1984. 36 pp. Bibl.

    Debra Millard’s dye investigations for her master’s project at the

University of Minnesota form the basis for this book. Intended for the

quiltmaker, it will be useful to anyone who wants to use Procion M-series

dyes with cotton fabric. It is the first step-by-step dyeing guide written with

the quiltmaker’s needs in mind. Nearly all the examples or formulas are

either pure hues or hues desaturated with black or brown and formulas are

illustrated with small fabric swatches. The dyeing of tints in gradations is

described, but sample swatches of gradations are not included. Dyers will

find Jan Myers’s method for dyeing gradations, described in her book

Color Formulas for Use with Procion M-Series Dyes, easier to use. In fact,

the two books are effectively used in tandem. A list of suppliers with

addresses and a chart comparing color names by supplier are included.

Fifteen of the 36 pages are blank grids to which readers can attach their own

samples of dyed fabric.

328. Myers, Jan. Color Formulas for Use with Procion M-Series Dyes.

Minneapolis, 1986. l0 pp.

    Myers began developing her dye formulas while a graduate student

at the University of Minnesota. In this workbook of dye formulas she uses

Procion M-series dyes to create 30 colors, each with eight value gradations.

Step-by-step instructions for dyeing cotton fabric are provided. The book’s

strength lies in the specific formulas, all illustrated with actual fabric

swatches. By desaturating with hues in addition to black and brown, Myers

creates more varied colors than Millard does in her Quilter’s Guide to Fabric

Dyeing. However, the formula approach is also a weakness because it does

not provide a context, other than experimentation, for creating other colors;

there is no reference to color theory nor alternative approaches to

desaturation. (Readers wanting this information can turn to Millard’s A

Quilter’s Guide to Fabric Dyeing and Knutson’s Synthetic Dyes and Natural

Fibers.) Myers, a quilt artist well known for using gradation, clearly

explains her method for creating graded value steps. Also included are a list

of suppliers and a comparative chart that gives dye names and numbers by


329. Rice, Miriam, and Dorothy Beebee. Mushrooms for Color. Eureka CA:

Mad River, 1980. 146 pp. Index, bibl., B/W illus., color illus.

    The process of using mushrooms as dyestuffs is clearly explained

from a practitioner’s point of view. The many illustrations by Dorothy

Beebee include a yarn color wheel showing over 164 mushroom-dyed

skeins. Descriptions of 100 dye mushrooms are illustrated with drawings

by the second author. The well-organized section on identifying and

classifying mushrooms for color is credited to Susan D. Ligonati-Barns.

The practical instructions for keeping dye records and organizing a color

swatch book will be useful to hand dyers.

330. Roberts, John R. Dyeing of Paper. Wilmington, DE: E. I. du Pont de

Nemous, 1924. 103 pp. Index, B/W illus., color illus.

    Of interest primarily as a historic resource, this practical and easily

understood book offers general information on the use of dyes for paper,

provides 25 pages of color swatches that document paper color choices

available in the 1920s, and reviews paper types and processes for dyeing.

331. Robertson, Seonaid Mairi. Dyes From Plants. New York: Van Nostrand

Reinhold, 1973. 144 pp. Index, bibl., B/W illus., color illus. ISBN 0-442-26974-9. 

    Most of the plant dyes developed through history were intended for

wool fiber. This book concentrates on those dyes, while noting those that

can also dye cotton, silk, rayon, raffia, rushes, and other fibers used for

basketry and garments. After briefly discussing fiber preparation,

equipment, and dyeing procedures, the author explains mordants and their

uses. Entries on dye plants presented in order of seasonal availability,

include a description of the plant, mordants that may be used, and the

method for dyeing. The same information is provided for dyes of historic

importance, lichens, and dyes for cotton, linen and silk. Over-dyeing, use

of dyed fibers, and planting a dye garden are also addressed.

332. Rowe, Frederick N. Colour Index. London: Lund Humphries, 1924.

Society of Dyers and Colourists. 371 pp. Index.

    This is the first edition of a classic reference that is revised regularly.

The volume records 1316 colors selected for “color makers, color users and

students,” and especially for dyers using cotton and wool, textile printers.

and photographic film makers. The dyes encompass organic, inorganic,

and artificial coloring matters. The charts for each color list the commercial

name, scientific name, components and formula, preparation, discoverer

and relevant literature, and description, properties, and mode of


333. Sandberg, Gösta. Indigo Textiles, Technique and History.

London: A. and C. Black, and Asheville, North.Carolina: Lark , 1989. 184

pp. Index, bibl., B/W illus., color illus. ISBN 0-937274-40-2.

    This is a well-organized, fascinating account of the world of indigo

by a master of textile dyeing and color theory at the Swedish State School of

Arts, Crafts, and Design. He tells the story of the creation and daily-life use

of popular textiles in Austria, Africa, China, Japan and Java. The many

historic prints and engravings, along with contemporary photographs,

illustrate numerous aspects of indigo dyeing, including resist printing, wax

batik, ikat, and Yoruba Plangi. In addition to showing the technical aspects

clearly, the author covers possible causes of failure. This authoritative and

eloquent book combines design history and guidelines for practice in a

handsome format.

334. Society of Dyers and Colourists. Color Index. 5 vols. London: Bradford,

1971. Variously paginated. Index, bibl., B/W illus. ISBN 0-901956.

    This multi-volume reference work includes information on nearly

8,000 generic names for dye types from acid to vat. The first three volumes

provide an essay with bibliography for each dye type, followed by charts

that state each dye’s chemical class, CI number, hue, intended fibers,

printing, color fastness and other properties, non-textile uses, and

miscellaneous information. The fourth volume provides dye chemistry

data, and a fifth volume indexes dyes by commercial and generic names.

Information is updated in 1975 and 1982 supplements.

335. Storey, Joyce. The Thames and Hudson Manual of Dyes and Fabrics.

London: Thames and Hudson, 1978. 192 pp. Index, bibl., glossary, B/W

illus., color illus.

    Written by a teacher at the Philadelphia College of Textiles and

Science, this thorough technical book includes detailed descriptions of

natural and man-made fibers, historical background, industrial dye

processes, cloth preparation, solvents, fixatives and thickeners. Direct,

resist, and discharge methods are covered with considerable emphasis on

“printing” the dyes on to the fabric, along with final treatment. Very little

attention is given to color and then only as it relates to testing color fastness.

The information is too brief for the general reader (it is not a how-to book)

although the home dyer may find the overview of fibers and dyes useful.

Although first published in the United States, it retains the flavor of its

original British publishing house.

336. Tescher, Judy Mercer. Dyeing and Over-Dyeing of Cotton

Fabrics. Paducah, KY: American Quilter’s Society, 1990. 54 pp.

Glossary, B/W illus., color illus. ISBN 0-89145-949-9.

    Methods for changing already colored fabrics by dyeing them with a

second color are carefully explained and shown. Reasons for overdyeing,

basic recipes, and guidelines for color mixing are given along with a chart

that summarizes mixing principles. The excellent illustrations throughout

include well-designed black-and-white drawings that appear in the technical

section. Color photographs showing details of many fabrics before and

after overdyeing are integrated into the lucid text. Six handsome quilts by

the author incorporating overdyed fabrics are also shown. The author`s

enthusiasm for changing the color appearance of fabric is conveyed as a

liberating option for quilters who choose to work with printed fabrics.

Although there is no broad discussion of color, a brief history of how dyes

have developed is included in this handsomely designed and informative


337. Tompson, Frances, and Tony Tompson. Synthetic Dyeing for

Spinners, Weavers, Knitters and Embroiders. Newton Abbot,

England: David and Charles, 1987. 136 pp. Index, glossary, color illus.

ISBN 0-7153-8874-6.

    The introductory section of this excellent book traces the history of

dyes and includes a valuable section on health and safety for dyers. A

central color theory chapter explains how colors blend and work together

and the influence of simultaneous contrast and distance on assessing colors,

so that dyes may be chosen and used successfully. Technical information

includes a useful fiber properties chart and addresses of suppliers in the

United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand.

338. Tilton, John Kent. A History of Color as Used in Textiles. New York:

Frank Caso, 1956. Scalamander Silks, Brochure 9. 24 pp. B/W illus.

    In addition to a brief historical survey of the general dye palette and

changing fashions for textiles, Tilton provides background information on

historic associations for each color, color sources for western textiles, and a

section on color harmony is included. Although this little book lacks

documentation, it provides an pleasant introduction for the student of

textiles or interior design.

339. Vinroot, Sally. The New Dyer. Loveland, CO: Interweave, 1981.

118 pp. Index, bibl., glossary. ISBN (L934026-05-X.

    This comprehensive guide for synthetic dyes -- acid, fiber reactive,

and disperse -- will appeal to the serious craftsperson who wants consistent

results using precise methods. A brief history of' dyes and a summary of

color theories is followed by formula approaches to dyeing tints, tones, and

shades as well as making secondaries and tertiaries. A color wheel with

acetate overlays makes it easy to experiment with the concepts. Procedures

for dyeing and the advantages and disadvantages for each type of dye are

clearly explained. This excellent reference book is particularly geared to the

needs of those who dye yarn or fiber rather than cloth.

340.Walter, Judy Anne. Creating Color: A Dyer’s Handbook. Evanston, IL:

Cooler By The Lake, 1989. 121 pp. Index, glossary, B/W illus. ISBN 0-


    This is a technical manual, published by a quilter, with formulas for

using Procion MX fiber dyes. The two-page introduction to conventional

color theory concludes with the primary dyes used by the author, which are

based on the red-blue-yellow of the painter's primaries. Later she also

recommends using “fuchsia, yellow and turquoise” of printer’s primaries.

Eight charts summarize dyebath ingredients for quilt-cotton, and eight

projects for dying color wheels and gradations are described. The practical

suggestions and hints that fill the rest of the book will be useful to the

novice dyer learning how to dye cotton fabrics in the studio, although the

only illustrations are rough ink sketches. For comparison the reader may

wish to see Color Formulas for Use with Procion M-Series Dyes (1986) by

Jan Myers, whose workshop the author attended.

341. Wickens, Hetty. Natural Dyes for Spinners and Weavers. London: B.T.

Batsford, 1983. 96 pp. Index, bibl., glossary, B/W illus. ISBN 0-7134-

202 1 -9.

    Wickens recommends natural dyeing as a challenging hobby that can

be a source of satisfaction and lead to increased understanding of color

theory and harmonies. Selection and preparation of fibers and methods of

mordanting and dyeing are explained and illustrated for wool, cotton, linen,

and other fibers. A wide range of natural dye materials is considered.

Wickens’ suggestions for blending colors in spinning and weaving

naturally dyed fibers are valuable, while the numerous illustrations and the

bibliography help make this one of the most useful books on the


342. Young, Stella, and Williard Beatty, eds. Navajo Native Dyes: Their

Preparation and Use. 1940. Reprint. New York: AMS, 1979. 75 pp.

B/W illus. ISBN 0-404-15504-9.

    Reprinted by the Education Division of the U.S. Office of Indian

Affairs, this work documents the traditional use of native dyes for wool

developed by the Navajo using only what was available on their reservation.

The formulas and recipes were recorded or developed in the 1920s by the

Home Economics department at Wingate Vocational High School. The

book includes general instructions, growing conditions for the 33 plants

described and instructions for dye use. Drawings by Charles Keetsie Shirley

show each whole plant, with a detail within the same composition to

facilitate identification.